| so its like this. What I was offering was help (which is what I thought you wanted) not an attack. However, my statement about you being an aggressive tuner evidently hit a sore spot. In reply... 1. Never dismiss any possibilities. Thats easy. 2. The knock sensor will retard the timing to prevent damage by detonation (which like you said to Joe(NoVA) everything at this point is speculation and thats where I was trying to help by suggesting the sensor check. If the sensor was not working correctly there could have been detonation going on and Dee didn't know. The type of detonation that causes this problem over time is when it happens on the low (where Dee surely would not know, on the high is when you hear the metal pinging sound). That bearing looks like it was caused by detonation over time (but maybe in all your experience you haven't seen many bearings that looked like that (again, you were asking for help right?)). When detonation happens on the low the bearing is always the sufferer, when it happens on the high is when the piston and rings are damaged the most. 3. Yes I know what the EGR's function is but since you are a bit blind at the moment I'll explain. I was merely explaining how things like heat (which is an ultimate necessity in order for detonation to happen) can go up when doing the EGR bypass mod. The return of exhaust gas helps to inhibit the combustion temperature although thats not its function (and just trying to help, I think you should research that a little). I never really knew about the EGR on our cars staying shut at WOT. But if it does then obviously that would be an opportunity for more heat to develope. 4. I know you work hard and are dedicated. No doubt about that. I know there is a lot of ass breaking work behind those "facial shots" (no, I'm not kissing your ass), but I also know that you are trying to out-do JWT with your tune. You've made that clear many times in the past. ("It is funny to listen to these kinds of comments (from my perspective) as it truly reflects the ignorance of those who speak it - just watching the bandwagon has its comedy.") I'll just put a line through that statement and what followed. It's obvious what mood you were in to talk this ridiculous :) And as far as this post...
[ [ http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=general&msg_id=1665636 ] ] Yes you had the car on the dyno and tuned it to reach the power it did. But If I was wanting to make a big tado about your tuning I would have post what I am about to say a long time ago. To explain things as they happened and since I really don't feel like typing it again I will paste a clip from an email I sent to a friend. =====Begin When I bought Wags car I knew it was having a problem with starting. Sean and I had talked about it. The car had a problem where after you started the car and drove around and then shut the car off you could NOT get the car started again. Also, sometimes when you slowed quickly, accelerated or made certain turns it would start kicking and even die out (at times losing all electrical power to the car). Trying to start the car when it started acting like that was next to impossible and I kept having to roll start the car to make it home. I found the connections to the ECU were unbelievably terrible. After redoing all the ECU connections to the AFC the car never lost electrical power (which was causing the kicking) and electrically the car worked perfect. But it still had starting problems and I still had to toe the gas to keep it from dieing out. I was checking this and checking that and finally decided to check the chip in the ECU. The chip was always in my mind because Wags had told me how Ash did the tuning on the car. I pulled the chip to replace it, but the only thing I could use was a chip I burned from an 850cc dpc bin I had for Japanese cars. I put the chip in and was amazed. The car ran great no problems at all. To confirm the chip was the problem I put the (Ash tuned) chip back in the ECU and the car was right back to where it was before. You could tell how it sounded at idle and rev that something was amiss. I put the Japan chip back in and the car ran great. I Called JWT and told them I had a 555cc JWT chip (which I did) and wanted to know how I could upgrade to the 850cc chip. They said no problem, just mail the chip in and the cost would be $100. So that’s what I did and now I have the JWT chip installed and the car feels and drives fantastic. Now back to my ECU project. ====end I compared the firmware of your tuned chip to that of the JWT chip and found that your timing was grossly maladjusted and the maps looked ridicules. The reason the car would not start is because the tune was causing such a lean condition that when the car was hot the A/F mixture was vaporing off to the point where the car would not start. Again, my initial post was simply stating what the bearing had looked like to me and I was only attempting to offer diagnostic ideas to eliminate the posibility of detonation. If the knock "system" was not working correctly then the probability of detonation goes up and pulling the heads for inspection may need to be done in order to prevent a larger disaster later. As far as your attitude, well, enough said and I will reframe from trying to help you further. Hope you find the solution and get it fixed. Dee, good luck.
www.mytwinturbo.com
I think I speak for most when I say "We don't give 2 sh!ts" (n/m) - YugoBernie (NoVA) 11:40:06 01/15/03 (4) |
